Saturna’s Currents Decoded

Posted on September 29, 2018April 14, 2026 by Ruth Daber

Understanding sea kayaking currents around Saturna Island is essential for safe trip planning. If you haven’t already, our article Saturna’s Tides Decoded connects closely with this one.

The general direction of flood (feathered arrow) and ebb tidal streams around Saturna Island are shown in the image. Ebb and flood currents between Saturna and Pender Islands are generally less strong, and direction varies. For detailed information it is helpful to refer to the Current Atlas (Juan de Fuca Strait to Strait of Georgia) by the Canadian Hydrographic Service — a free PDF available from DFO. The publication has 93 scenarios of current direction and flow rate for our wider area. The corresponding Murray’s Table (free download, available through 2030, last checked April 2026) connects each hour with an applicable page. Note that currents at Boat Passage and similar narrow passages cannot be properly identified this way — the Current Atlas is better suited to reading the larger patterns of tidal stream movement across the region. Thick, fat arrows indicate strong currents of 2.5 knots and above. Be very cautious in the surrounding area.

For those who prefer a digital tool, the PNW Current Atlas app (iOS) combines the Current Atlas and lookup tables in one place. Bear in mind that like the printed atlas, it is best used for reading broader tidal stream patterns rather than precise timing at narrow passages like Boat Passage, which are not marked in the atlas. The app has a free trial after which you purchase it. I have found it most helpful to have accessible on my phone.

A newer alternative is the Salish Sea Tidal Current Atlas (SSTCA) by Dr. Richard Dewey of Victoria, BC. This free resource uses a higher resolution tidal model than the original DFO atlas and covers more of the Salish Sea. For our area around Saturna Island, download Volume 1E along with the SSTCA Volume 1 Calendar Lookup Tables for 2026. Note that the SSTCA shows a discrepancy in Tumbo Channel compared to the original DFO atlas. The DFO atlas shows the channel running in a back eddy around Tumbo Island, meaning that even when the flood direction everywhere else points northwest, the channel current runs southeast — something we have observed ourselves on the water. The SSTCA does not appear to recognise this back eddy. We recommend cross-referencing both resources and using your own observations when paddling this area.

Kayakers often travel close to shore and passing through back eddies that are circular currents running in reverse direction of the main current and are not necessarily indicated in the Current Atlas. I often look at bull kelp as I paddle to help me identify the direction of such currents.

Tumbo Channel currents always run toward East Point due to an eddie forming at Tumbo and Cabbage Islands. The only time the surface water does not move that way is when winds are stronger and force the surface water the other direction. Other than that, plan your sea kayaking trip taking advantage of the tidal stream whenever it is safe to do so (i.e. travel counter clockwise around Tumbo Island).

Boat Passage at Flood Current

Visit Boat Passage once a while from shore and view it at different flow rates. You may see a still pond and an hour later a raging river. With currents as strong as 6 knots, it can run twice as fast as the speed of an average skilled paddler. At high speeds expect turbulent water with whirlpools also. If not understood, Boat Passage can become a one-way trip ending in a rescue scenario or at best a very long wait for a turn of tidal stream flow. You can however cross many narrow passages by sea kayak during a predictable window of opportunity when tidal horizonal movement turns, called slack tide. To work out how much time you have to get through a passage, you need to know slack time as well as the maximum ebb or flood of the current before and after slack (typically around 3 hours before and after). I am going to pick an example here around a new moon when tidal ranges are great. Let’s say that you want to get through Boat Passage on Sunday June 28th, 2026, a few days after a new moon when tidal ranges are greatest, and wonder when it is safe to do so. There is no current station measuring speeds and times here; data is derived from surrounding current stations. We find the numbers close to what happens. Look up maximum ebb (into Winter Cove), slack time and maximum flood currents (toward Vancouver) and click through to currents at Boat Passage (and choose the date):

Max Ebb: 3.5 knots
Slack: 9:40am
Max Flood: 5 knots

Apply the Slack Water Rule:

Period of Slack Water (minutes) = 60/Speed of Max Current (knots)

Period of Slack Water = 60/3.5 = 17 minutes (before slack)
Period of Slack Water = 60/5 = 12 minutes (after slack)
Total Period of Slack Water = 17+12 = 29 minutes (starting 17 minutes before slack water at 9:40am, so at 9:23am)

This formula calculates how much time there is to safely get through a passage by sea kayak. Always arrive early, so that you can allow for variables and be flexible if conditions are beyond your skill level. If you are not sure it is safe, apply common sense and don’t cross till you have gained more skills as well as better judgement. Always be aware of your surroundings and other boats passing through, some of which are unable to move out of the way, if you move into theirs. Boat Passage is a very short passage and therefore travelling through it under the right conditions is fast. If you wanted to get through Active Pass, you want to be aware of the much longer distance and time needed to travel through it. If your paddling speed is 3 knots, just one knot of current against you, will slow you down to 2 knots. One nautical mile will take you 30 minutes instead of 20. While not the whole stretch of Active Pass encounters the strong currents, certain areas are extremely fast flowing with whirlpools and in addition ferry traffic and waves to look out for.

Great, now that you can figure out when to get through Boat Passage safely, think about the rest of your trip. Will you go to a destination beach and return in around six hours with the next slack time? Or will you carry on your journey to a different destination. If you are planning on going around Samuel Island, beware that the passage between Samuel and Mayne Island also has currents that can be significant for a paddler.

Tide, weather and current information relevant to Saturna Island can be found at the same link. Use this information for the Go-No-Go decision making process that we use in planning and launching a trip, considering various environmental factors.

For more on the specific hazards at Boiling Reef and East Point, including real rescue scenarios from those waters, read our article Boating Hazards at Boiling Reef.

KayakingSkills.com offers Paddle Canada sea kayaking courses at various levels, from Basic Sea Kayak Skills through to Level 2, all taught on the waters around Saturna Island where tides and currents are part of every trip. Understanding how to read and use tidal stream information is also a practical advantage on our multi-day tours such as the Samuel Island Circumnavigation and Around Saturna in 2 Days. For more on paddling technique and how a strong forward stroke helps when currents turn against you, see The Sea Kayaker’s Self Defence.

Saturna’s Tides Decoded

Posted on September 29, 2018September 29, 2018 by Ruth Daber

The following information, observations and conclusions are from the perspective of a Saturna Island based Sea Kayaker and Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor and compiled to the best of her knowledge and experience over the past five years.

Tides move up and down, currents move side to side. Tides are actually long-period waves that roll around the planet as the ocean is “pulled” back and forth as the moon and sun interact with earth. The moon orbits earth and earth spins around the sun. The moon and sun both have a gravitational pull, strongly effecting large bodies of water. There is a repeating cycle as the moon orbits earth. The moon causes the majority of the gravitational pull. When sun, moon and earth align during full moon and new moon, the gravitational pull is amplified. Around two days later we experience the largest tides, called spring tides (think of “springing up and down”). This means that more water moves between low and high tides. During the first and third quarter moons, the gravitational pull is reduced, and we have smaller tidal ranges, called neap tides. Currents, also called tidal streams, are the horizontal effect of the tidal movement. While tides are biggest at spring tides, currents are also stronger as more water volume is pulled around earth. Due to the varied coastline and the many small islands in our area, slack water (when there is little to no current at the change of direction of tidal flow) does not necessarily occur simultaneously with high and low tide times, despite their correlation. The West coast of North America mostly experiences two high and two low tides of different heights each lunar day. This tidal pattern is called a mixed semi diurnal tide.

Which tidal station do I look up when paddling off Saturna Island? Primary tide stations that are relevant for Saturna Island are at Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island and Point Atkinson between Horseshoe Bay and West Vancouver. Saturna Island has two secondary tide stations: Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay and there is also Hope Bay on Pender Island nearby. I once wrote down tide predictions for Hope Bay, Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay, Fulford Harbour and Point Atkinson. I converted all the information into a graph and noticed that the difference and potential error margin for our purpose is too small to really fuss about (see graph). Especially when looking at Tumbo Channel, Hope Bay and Fulford Harbour: the graph looked almost identical for those three. Who knows, maybe I just picked a particularly good day to compare them 🙂

Keep predicted tide heights and possible variance due to wind and barometric pressure in mind when leaving your boat at the beach while going for walks or overnighting. Always secure your kayak with a rope too. High pressure systems can contribute to very low tides while low pressure systems can increase the height of a predicted high tide.

The Department of Fisheries and Oceans publishes tabulated printed data annually. You can buy Volume 5 for tidal stations of Juan de Fuca Strait & Strait of Georgia or get Tide information at Fisheries and Oceans. Tabulated data is easy to write down while a graph puts numbers visually into perspective and considers that tide heights increase fastest in the middle two hours between low and high tide (roughly six hours apart); both are useful tools.

Ensure that tide times are in PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) or PST (Pacific Standard Time, which you need to adjust during daylight savings in summer). In Canada, tides are measured in metres. Many websites work in feet and generate graphs which I find easy to relate to my needs. What interests us as when launching and landing a sea kayak in Lyall Harbour, is when the tide is going to be over four to five feet (by Fulford Harbour tide station). We prefer to avoid the otherwise inevitable mud battle. Intertidal zones are illustrated in green colour on nautical charts. Looking at a nautical chart for the area, you will notice how much intertidal zone there is at different beaches (look at Cabbage Island for example). Consider this when choosing launching and landing sites, especially when packing gear for overnight camping trips and dealing with low tides.

Kayaking along rocks with a large visible intertidal zone is particularly beautiful and interesting. Sea stars, sea urchins and other sea creatures, normally hidden, become visible at low tide. Take care when crossing fragile intertidal zones, seaweeds and eelgrass that provide fundamental ecosystems for the Salish Sea.

We have summarised sources of information for tide, weather and currents relevant to Saturna Island.

Use this information for the Go/No-Go decision making process that we use in planning and executing a trip, considering various environmental factors.

Ok, so we have figured out the relevant tide stations. And we understand that greater tide ranges happen at spring tides and smaller tidal ranges during neap tides. If you are looking for less currents, go kayaking during neap tides. If you are looking for more currents to play in, look for spring tides. All this is especially relevant when navigating through small passages like Boat Passage or around Boiling Reef off East Point. Our next article will decode currents around Saturna Island.

KayakingSkills.com offer Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking skills and instructor courses at various levels. We teach essential and relevant sea- man/woman -ship. We promise to educate and entertain you. You will get hands on experience with tides and currents in our courses when planning a sea kayaking trip. We help you identify hazards to avoid and risks to mitigate for your sea kayaking adventures. Our intermediate courses include current clinics in areas such as Boiling Reef, Tumbo Island and Boat Passage.

Happy Paddling!

The Sea Kayaker’s Self Defence

Posted on July 23, 2018April 14, 2026 by Ruth Daber

No, this is not going to be a martial arts class… more like a lesson in self defense when wind and weather play more than you planned for.
Your forward stroke is your Number 1 safety stroke and if you do it badly, it can hurt through injury over time or because you cannot move fast enough to punch through wind or current. Honestly, it sometimes is a challenge to teach the importance of developing a powerful and efficient forward stroke. “Well, I am not here to go fast.” Is a response we often hear when we mention that we teach forward stroke in detail. I enjoy comfortably exploring the shorelines and their sea life by sea kayak. I often have no interest in going fast.
It wasn’t till we paddled on a one-day trip when weather changed unexpectedly, that I wished I had been able to go faster. I will share my experience which lead to me seeking further training to become a better paddler and eventually a Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor.
If you have been caught out kayaking before with wind picking up unexpectedly, or strong currents you did not familiarise yourself with, you may relate to this.
On the way home, we soon realised that winds had turned enough to make a smooth ride a rocky one with headwind and confused seas. What started out as a “walk along the shore” soon became an increasingly uncomfortable place and the immediate future suggested another hour of this ordeal. Conditions slowed us down, doubling the time it normally would take. In the beginning it felt like an adventurous and exciting time in the elements. Then, wrists started hurting, my right lower arm became sorer with every stroke. Yes, I was focussing on pushing, not pulling, the instructions I knew of, but it still was merely a hard wrist and arm workout. I just was not moving as fast as I should have for the energy that I expended. In retrospect I realise that things could have turned out much worse. In those days we did not carry a VHF radio and we were dressed for “on the water” not “in the water”. A prolonged battle in bad weather accompanied by injury can lead to capsize with potential cold water shock, cold water incapacitation, hypothermia and even death if unable to re-enter and no one there to help. We got off lightly when we made it home, exhausted and sore.
Later in this early year of sea kayaking, I developed symptoms that I would classify as a tennis elbow. I stuck to very short paddle trips because I knew paddling was hurting me and even felt pain when trying to open a cupboard in the kitchen. The kayaking season ended with reduced ability to go out on the water and enjoy the activity which I so loved.
I realise that the forward stroke, which sea kayakers spend 99% of their time on the water doing, is a critical and difficult stroke to perfect. When focussing on the forward stroke form, I found it rewarding to be able to move the kayak along further with equal energy input, but better technique.
Last year during my solo sea kayaking adventure around Saturna Island, I really started to appreciate how much stronger of a paddler I had become… not by sheer force, but by technique. Instead of using the small muscles of the arms I moved the paddle through the water using the large muscles that get activated in torso rotation and even include the leg muscles. This means that more muscle mass is used and less stress is placed on small muscles, reducing strain and risk of repetitive strain injuries. I was able to push through some currents at Boiling Reef, move into challenging winds and in some more waves than I would have felt comfortable with prior to working on my forward stroke. My wrists and arms are happy they have less of a load to handle. Regarding speed I know now: every little helps. And there is still more fine-tuning to do. The forward stroke is one that continuously can and should be developed.
Winds and waves can change, no matter how carefully you plan your trip. Head winds, currents, whirlpools and following seas can be trouble you did not anticipate. Unless there is a way to avoid the bad conditions by waiting them out in a safer place, having a powerful sea kayaking forward stroke is your best defense to get you out of such trouble. It also may mean for example that you reach your destination before darkness, that you can help a paddling peer who needs a tow or that you can get to a capsized kayaker faster.
Here are some tips that I find useful for developing a strong forward stroke: 1. Set up your “paddler’s box”. This is a strong position that allows force transference into the core, shoulders, and legs by encouraging torso rotation. Imagine an invisible large ball between you and your paddle shaft with your hands in a medium wide push up position, start with holding your hands out in front of you, wrists do not bend. 2. Rotate your torso (to involve the whole body by engaging your core, hips and legs in each stroke) then 3. Plant the blade near toe distance, unwind your torso and let the paddle exit the water roughly where your hips are. Continue the rotation, plant the opposite blade near toe distance for the next stroke and so on. Avoid loading the blade with water that you then lift up as you complete a stroke (unnecessary strain). Another common mistake is to pull your arm to far.
Don’t be tempted to lean back onto the back rest. Consider it useful for breaks and resting. Your posture should be upright with a slight forward tilt and straight back. Surprisingly, we have come across multiple “experienced” kayakers that held their paddle upside down. While it is possible to move forward like this, it is by no means efficient.
Long-distance paddlers mostly utilise slower and lower forward stroke technique (low angle touring stroke) with temporary use of steeper and faster strokes in certain demanding conditions. Ensure that your hand grip on the paddle shaft is firm enough to have steady control and loose enough to remain relaxed. You can even open the hand that is in forward motion (wind permitting). This is a reminder to avoid tensing up and straining your arms.
Know your speed: keep track of the distance you cover and the time it takes. Do this several times to get an average. 3 knots (nautical miles per hour) is often used as a typical paddler’s speed. In our experience, this is a casual speed for an intermediate paddler. If you like to stop for pictures, lunch etc., add time. Also beware that getting home can be a different “paddle game” altogether, depending on wind, currents, sea state, visibility, your state and the rest of the group.
We know that launching from Lyall Harbour beach, going around King and Queen Islands (named King on the nautical chart) and back, makes up around 3 nautical miles. Do this in one hour and your speed is 3 knots.
Here are some videos that you may also find useful.

KayakingSkills’ courses teach efficient use of your body mechanics for a powerful and effective forward stroke, your best self defence when seas turn rough unexpectedly and you need to get out of trouble fast. The forward stroke is taught in all our courses, from Basic Sea Kayak Skills and Level 1 through to Level 2, where technique is progressively refined. On smaller tours there is also opportunity to work on individual technique with our instructors.

We cover essential knowledge on being safe on the water during your day and multi-day trips, including the risks of cold water immersion and hypothermia, which we will be covering in detail in an upcoming article.

Find out more about our kayaking courses or contact us with any questions.

Marine Weather Workshop Report

Posted on June 26, 2018February 26, 2019 by Ruth Daber

Let’s face it: talking about the weather can be a dry or wet subject.

Not so at the April 14th Marine Weather Workshop with Tony Merry from the Pender Island Squadron.
13 eager students gathered in the Community Hall on Saturna Island to talk about the weather.
The weather man brought some good weather humor with him too.

Here are some weather nuggets for those that missed this Marine Weather Course with Tony Merry, hosted by KayakingSkills.com:

The sun causes our weather.

We are surrounded by air which is 78% nitrogen and only about 21% oxygen.
So, when Tony fills his car tires with air, he uses 78% nitrogen 😊

Without water as vapour, liquid or solid, there would be no weather.

We looked at a surface analysis NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) printout that gives a good picture of the weather that is approaching from the Pacific. We learned to make more sense of this surface analysis with its isobars, fronts, highs and lows.

Cold fronts move faster than warm fronts and when they catch up, we end up with a TROWAL (Trough of warm air aloft).

Wind moves from high to low pressure.

Isobars are 4 mbar apart. The closer the lines of the isobars, the stronger the winds.

In the Southern Gulf Islands, the prevailing winds are South Easterlies (wind moves from whatever direction is indicated).

Buys-Ballot’s Law: “If you stand with your back to the wind in the Northern Hemisphere, pressure is lower to your left.”

Wave height is influenced mostly by wind speed, duration of wind and fetch. Fetch is the distance the wind blows over an open water surface. The largest waves will be generated when the wind speed, time frame, and fetch are greatest.

Clouds are mainly defined by the height of their base above the ground and their shape.
High clouds are composed of ice crystals, giving them a white and bright appearance. Medium and lower hanging clouds may include ice crystals, but often mostly water droplets and look greyer.
Clouds high in the sky give information about future weather tendencies, lower clouds are relevant for present weather conditions.

Whether you are inside the fog or looking at a low-lying cloud is merely a matter of perspective 😊

To determine the height of cumulus clouds, check this out: is the cloud element bigger or smaller than your 3 fingers held next to each other at armlength? Bigger: it is lower (stratocumulus). Smaller: it is higher (altocumulus).

And then there are clouds of vertical development that we need to look out for…

Hail only comes from cumulonimbus clouds. Therefore, we know what clouds were over Saturna Island on April 7th (2018), when hail fell and thunder and lightning hit Saturna Island. Though rare for thunder and lightning to be quite as close to home here, it does happen.

KayakingSkills.com occasionally hosts workshops and speakers about being safe on the water; especially interesting for kayakers and boaters. Drop us an email if you like to be informed about future events. All kayaking courses conducted by KayakingSkills.com cover a relevant marine weather overview also.

Why wear your PFD

Posted on May 25, 2018May 25, 2018 by Ruth Daber

During the past five years of living on Saturna Island, enjoying water sports and running a sea kayaking business, my husband Fred Shadian and I have witnessed many paddlers not wearing a PFD (Personal Flotation Device) or lifejacket when on the water.

To some it feels unnecessary or uncool to wear a PFD, but the best paddlers in the world wear their PFD, and they are supercool. Here are some considerations for the next time you make the choice to wear or not to wear your PFD while out on the water.

Transport Canada states: You are required by law to have a lifejacket or PFD (Personal Flotation Device) on board for each person on a watercraft. This includes human-powered craft.

PFDs are designed to be warn for the duration of a water-based activity. A well-designed PFD allows for comfort and sufficient mobility during activities such as sea kayaking. Lifejackets have extra floatation on the front and are designed to turn an unconscious swimmer face up to enable breathing. Choose a bright color PFD if you want to be seen.

Transport Canada: A lifejacket (or PFD) is your best defence against cold-water shock. Research shows that unexpected immersion in cold water is a serious risk to life if a boater is not wearing a flotation device. This is true despite the boater’s experience, closeness to shore, and even swimming ability.

A sudden fall into cold water can seriously affect breathing, nerves, and muscle strength. A lifejacket gives you thermal protection as well as keeping you buoyant.

Most recreational boaters who die on the water each year in Canada are not wearing floatation devices, or are not wearing them properly.

A PFD should fit correctly and all buckles fastened, straps tightened snugly. Periodically it needs to be tested by walking into shallow water while wearing it and verifying sufficient buoyancy. Also check for any wear or tear to ensure it works when you need it to.

Learn more about choosing lifejackets, PFDs, keeping children afloat, care for your flotation device and more.

Water temperatures around Saturna Island vary with seasonal weather patterns and within local areas due to shore shape, water depths, winds and mixing of currents. Surface water is normally warmer than lower lying layers. Even in the hottest summer months, expect the water to be cold. Environment Canada collects water temperature data of buoys which vary mostly around 8 to 13 degrees Celsius.

This graph illustrates the minimum and maximum water temperatures around Vancouver Island through the year (averages of the past 10 years).

This is cold water. If you have ever gone for a swim at a medium to high tide at Lyall Harbour beach (Saturna Island) during a late afternoon after a hot sunny day that heated up the exposed mudflat during the recent low tide, you can appreciate much warmer temperatures. Do not be mislead though to expect this kind of warmth 10 metres or 20 metres out from shore, in open water, deeper water or currents. It is realistic to experience a degree of cold shock response in the event of unexpected capsize / falling off your boat in our surrounding waters.

Hypothermia 1-10-1 principle:

1 minute – to get your breathing under control. Cold shock response: an initial deep and sudden gasp followed by hyperventilation that can be 6-10 times greater than normal breathing. The cold shock response will pass in about 1 minute. You must keep your airway clear and above water to avoid the risk of drowning. Concentrate on calming yourself and control your breathing. Wearing a lifejacket / PFD during this phase is critically important to stay afloat and be able to breathe.

10 minutes – of meaning full movement – gradually cold water incapacitation sets in when you will lose the effective use of your fingers, hands, arms and legs. These minutes are critical to establish a position that keeps your airways above the water. And if you need to use a device to get outside help (for example by VHF radio, mobile phone or a SPOT device), do so while you have the use of your hands and fingers. If you are in the water without a PFD or lifejacket, drowning is likely when cold water incapacitation sets in.

1 hr – before you become unconscious due to hypothermia. Even in ice water it could take 1 hour before becoming unconscious due to hypothermia. At this point you will want to make contact for outside help if not yet done and get yourself into a position for optimum heat conservation. As an individual you would bring your extremities close to your chest, as a group, provided all wear PFDs, you would huddle together, legs down. Moving less, saves energy that can be used for heat creation from inside.

When taking KayakingSkills.com courses, you will learn to capsize in a controlled manner, learn to control your breathing while in the water and re-enter your kayak in a timely manner. It is a good idea to regularly review and practice re-entries to be as prepared as possible for the case of accidental capsize. KayakingSkills.com’s courses are open to all level paddlers who want to be better prepared for the unexpected.

Your survival chances when exposed to cold water over a period of time, will depend on water temperature, your clothing, your body mass index and whether you are male of female; a situation where being a woman and having a few extra pounds maybe a slight advantage. Without PFD your chances are slim.

Here is a link to the 1-10-1 principle as taught by “Baby it’s Cold Outside”, a free online course.

Fred and I both have deepened our understanding of dealing with cold water immersion through this outstanding course information. It gives insight into how to handle a hypothermic victim for best survival odds.

Why wear your PFD? Your PFD can save your life. But it won’t work if you don’t wear it. Buckle up!

KayakingSkills.com teaches Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Courses. We cover essential water safety skills and knowledge during our one day, two day and multi-day courses.

Kayaking with Orcas

Posted on September 21, 2017April 13, 2026 by Ruth Daber

It is Sunday night on Cabbage Island.

Midnight! Tomorrow, Monday, will start within seconds. I should be sleeping…

I can’t. My mind is stirred up. Today was a great day.
No. It was beyond great. Today was an unbelievable day!

I close my eyes and I can see them again, the gentle giants, as they glide through the sea, as they blow water spray up high.

Did they see me?

Did they notice me?

What were they thinking?

Here is a true story. I am too excited to sleep. A whale passed me on the right, another on the left and three others must have gone underneath my kayak. And this is how it happened:

The wind blows strong. I decide to stay close to shore as I leave Narvaez Bay campground. Cliffside’s shoreline protects me from gusting winds. It really is quite pleasant paddling here. It is sunny and my dry-suit keeps me warm. I made the right choice crossing the bay and following the shoreline: no wind and sometimes currents in my favour.
Then I hear the blows. Two of them. Many times had I turned around looking for the source of blow-like sounds and whales, only to find the sound was a creation of a wave hitting an air pocket inside some rocks.

I hear more blows. anticipating nothing, a rock, or maybe a seal, I turn and see two black forms diving and surfacing. I wonder if they are harbour porpoises. I heard porpoises regularly come to Narvaez Bay.

They come closer. They do not move like porpoises. Porpoises create more of a circular shape as they surface and do not show much of themselves. These fins are taller and they also are blowing air and water up high… not like porpoises. Are there orcas in Narvaez Bay? I never heard about that before, so I remain skeptical.

But these fins moving toward me are blowing air and water, making these blowing sounds, too.

They must be whales. As they come closer, I see black and white areas within the shapes. They come toward me. My heart is racing. I pull out my camera, making sure to keep it dry. I still do not own one of these nice waterproof cameras that I really should have right now.

I decide to film rather than take pictures, as this is going to be the sure way to capture something.

Camera ready, I realise I am on my own, on the water, in my kayak, nobody sees me and I count 5 orcas moving toward me.

What if…

I loose my balance?

I drop my phone? My emergency contact would not get her 4 pm message as arranged and worry about me.

I come back to the moment, camera ready and filming.

Now, no whales in sight. Nothing for 5 then 10 seconds, my hands slightly shaking.

Then, on my right: a slow moving gentle giant of the sea. Graceful, majestic, magnificent, blowing air and water. The moment he is under water, I see another on my left. Wow. Beauty, just beauty. What happened to the other three? Their dorsal fins appear out of the water, some 20 metres away, in front of me. They must have gone underneath my kayak.

What would they be thinking? What are they doing?

I am in love. I pause as I see the gently giants move into the distance till they dive out of sight.
It is time to carry on with my journey. I don’t want to follow too close. Leaving a gap, I paddle on.

My heart is overjoyed, my hands still shaking; I am happy I had this experience. What more can one wish for? It was a unique encounter, just me and 5 whales. They have disappeared. I do not see them anymore. I keep paddling. I am happy.

There they are again; they turn around.

Really? I see them getting closer.
This time I put my camera away and just enjoy their magnificent movements and their impressive size.

The gentle giants pass me once more.

I am in love, in orca love. I watch as one dives down, followed by another in the same location; another follows. It seems like a dance. Maybe they are feeding. I do not know. They stay in the same spot for 10 minutes, maybe 20, maybe longer.

Time is confusing, I watch the orcas and their continuous dance.
It is time to depart to go to my 4 pm check-in appointment with Kate. I already know I do not get a signal with my phone and I have to get around Boiling Reef when currents are slow; I cannot risk being late. I say farewell to the whales and paddle on, happy in my heart.

Video footage of my orca encounter below. I have edited into a 2 minute movie titled: Kayaking with Orcas.

This encounter took place in Narvaez Bay, outside the Vessel Restricted Zone. The whales approached while my kayak was stationary and I did not follow them. Close encounters like this are rare and always initiated by the whales. If you are paddling in this area between June and November, please read our guide to killer whale regulations for kayakers before you go.