Author Archive: Ruth Daber

Sea Kayaking on Saturna Island with Kayaking Skills

Sea Kayaking for Beginners: What to Expect on Your First Paddle

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Somewhere in the first few minutes on the water, something becomes apparent. This feels special.

You are low on the ocean, connected with it. The water stops being something you look at, or travel on via a ferry or large boat. It is right there, inches below you, and you are moving with it. You glide past a rock face. You glance down and see a vibrantly purple sea star clinging to a rock wall a few feet from you. Behind you, without warning, a river otter surfaces, and vanishes the moment you catch a glimpse.

Sea kayaking opens a dimension that most people have never experienced. Not a boat on top of the water. Not a beach, or even swimming. Something in between, quiet, close to the water, and connected in a way that is hard to describe until you feel it.

If you are thinking about your first guided sea kayak tour or considering a Paddle Canada Basic Skills course, this guide is written for you. No experience required. No gear required. Just curiosity and a willingness to show up. Take a small leap of faith that you will enjoy this, and you will.

A Word of Honesty First

Sea kayaking looks easy. And in the right conditions, with the right guidance, it is wonderful. But as accessible as it may be, it can lead people to underestimate it.

Every year, people with no training buy poorly suited kayaks, head out onto water beyond their skill level and equipment, and find themselves in situations they are not able to handle. Inadequate gear, lack of skills, and unexpected conditions are a combination that can have serious consequences.

We are not saying this to frighten you. We are saying it because guided experiences and proper instruction exist for good reason, and starting with experienced people around you is the single smartest decision a new paddler can make. Everything after that gets to be about wonder.

Before You Arrive

Parking
Please park at the diagonal parking across the road from the community hall, about a five-minute walk to our dock (not on the concrete dock, pub, or café parking). We appreciate your cooperation, as this keeps access clear for everyone, including emergency vehicles.

Height and weight
When you book, we ask for your approximate height and weight. This is so we can make sure we have a kayak and PFD (personal floatation device, similar to a life jacket) that fits you properly and suits your needs. It is required information that helps us prepare the right setup for you.

The waiver
FareHarbor links a waiver to complete electronically before your tour or course. If completed ahead of time, we have this part out of the way. If you booked via a different pathway, or did not manage to complete it online, we will take care of it on arrival. It takes a few minutes.

What to leave behind
We have limited space on the dock for non-valuable items while you are on the water (i.e., your street shoes). Leave anything you do not need in your vehicle and bring what is on the “What to bring” list.

Mind your step
As you enter our dock area, please watch your footing and rough wood surfaces of dock floor and shed walls. Please wear shoes.

Let us know in advance
If you have specific concerns, fears, physical considerations, or questions before you arrive, please reach out. The more we know ahead of time, the better we can prepare your experience. There is nothing you could tell us that would surprise us.

What to Bring and Wear

Everything you need for paddling is provided: kayak, paddle, PFD (personal flotation device), etc., and sprayskirt if you choose to use one. What you bring is about your own comfort on the water.

What to wear:

  • Long-sleeve non-cotton or quick-dry shirt and pants (no tank tops for hygiene reasons, at minimum wear a t-shirt under our PFDs)
  • Kayaking-suitable shoes: feet and legs will get wet if your tour includes a beach stop (most two-hour tours do not, longer tours often do), if your shoes are too bulky, they may not work for paddling
  • Windbreaker or paddling jacket (highly recommended for windy, cooler, or rainy days)
  • Sun hat or cap with a retainer
  • Sunglasses with a retainer
  • Sunscreen

What to bring:

  • Water bottle (with clip if possible)
  • Snack if needed for longer tours
  • Phone or camera in a waterproof pouch
  • Extra dry clothes for after
  • Any personal medications, including seasickness medication if relevant

One important note: anything you bring onto the water may get wet. Plan accordingly and leave valuables behind.

Before You Get on the Water

Fitting your kayak and PFD
When you arrive, we fit you into your kayak and your personal flotation device. A PFD must be worn on the water at all times. It is required by Transport Canada to carry and by us to wear. We make sure yours fits correctly before you leave the dock. You will be in a single or tandem kayak, most likely we will have discussed this beforehand.

Safety gear
Before launching, we walk you through the safety equipment required by Transport Canada: your PFD (personal floatation device), whistle, paddle, throw rope (buoyant heaving line), and bilge pump.

kayak with safety gear mounted

Transport Canada required safety equipment: PFD, whistle, pump/bailer, buoyant rope (throw rope or tow rope), paddle.

The sprayskirt
Paddle Canada Skills course participants wear a sprayskirt which is provided. It fits around your cockpit and keeps water out of your boat. Tour guests are welcome to use one too. Just let us know. We will show you how to fit it and how to release it quickly if needed.

Communication signals
On the water, we communicate clearly and simply. We aim to stay fairly close together on the water so we can see and hear one another. We use additional signals at times, especially if wind and waves make verbal communication harder.

One whistle blast from your guide means pay attention. We may be gathering the group, pointing out something of interest, or flagging a boat or wake approaching.

Three whistle blasts mean a capsize has occurred. If anyone goes in the water, blow three times. Stay with your boat and stay with your paddle. This helps us control the situation. Keep away from any hazard and let us take the lead. That said, capsizes are unlikely.

Kayak safety signal: paddle held vertically means come to me       Kayak safety signal: paddle held horizontally above the head means all stop
A paddle held upright (vertical) means come to your guide.

A paddle held horizontally means stop and hold your position. If there is wind or current, paddle to stay where you are without drifting.

Most of the time we are close enough for regular conversation. If you find yourself farther away than feels comfortable, work your way back toward the group.

Tell us what this tour is about for you – whether to focus on scenic rock formations, wildlife, technique, or a calm and sheltered route. Within the conditions and the group’s ability, we aim to deliver the experience you are looking for.

Go / No Go
In addition to monitoring forecasted weather patterns ahead of time, before we launch, we review the weather, wind, and sea state. If conditions are unsuitable for the group, we do not go, or when possible we choose a different route that is appropriate. Safety is our priority.

Your First Moments on the Water

We launch from our dock. Before you push off, we demonstrate how to get into the kayak, the basic strokes: forward paddling and turning. You will find that basic paddling is intuitive. Most people are moving confidently within the first few minutes.

We offer tips on efficiency. Small adjustments to posture and stroke make a real difference. Sea kayaking is not about strength. It is about technique, and using your whole body rather than just your arms. Even your legs play a role.

Once you are on the water, your guide will point out an area to wait in while everyone else gets on the water. 

On the Water with Your Guide

We stay together as a group, keeping roughly one to three kayak lengths between boats. This is enough space to paddle comfortably while staying close enough to communicate and look out for each other. 2-4 people in a group is typical.

We make sure everyone gets familiar with their boat and how to move forward, stop, and turn. We move at a comfortable pace. Your guide reads the conditions, the group, and the surroundings continuously. If you need to temporarily increase your pace, your guide will let you know.

Enjoy your time on the water. Pay attention to the wonder around you.

We invite you to communicate with us. If you get tired, want more tips on technique, feel anxious or uncertain at any point, get our attention. Your safety and comfort are our priority from the moment you arrive to the moment you return to the dock.

The guide carries a towline and VHF radio for emergency use.

Returning to the Dock

When we return to our dock, we will direct you one by one to get back onto the dock and let you know where to place your gear. It is a small space, and we want to make sure nobody trips over a paddle or gets in each other’s way.

You may have sea legs at this point and feel a little wobbly on the dock. Take your time and take a seat if needed. There is no rush.

If we were able to take photos of you on the water, we love to share them with you by AirDrop for iPhone users or via a download link.

Before you leave, make sure you have all of your belongings from PFD pockets, hatches, and the dock.

In Case of an Unplanned Capsize

Capsizing on a guided tour is extremely rare. We fit you in a stable, beginner-appropriate boat, we assess conditions before every launch, and we keep the group together throughout.

If you capsize, release the sprayskirt (if wearing one), slide out of the boat, and regulate your breathing, focus on staying calm. Ideally stay with your boat and stay with your paddle. It helps us assist you more quickly.

Blow three whistle blasts if the group or guide is unaware. Your guide will be with you quickly and direct you through the steps to get you back in your boat. We have several techniques for assisted re-entry and we use the one that suits the situation. We carry a VHF radio and we do not venture far from shore, which means help is always close if we need it.

The water around Saturna Island is between 8 and 11 degrees Celsius year-round. It is cold. This is one of the reasons we take the precaution we take, and why dressing appropriately matters. Getting wet is not a disaster when you are prepared for it.

Wildlife and Wonder

This is where the other dimension opens fully.

When we encounter wildlife around Saturna Island we ask you to slow down, stay calm, and become an observer. Seals, river otters, seabirds, the occasional bald eagle overhead. Most of the wildlife in these waters is shy. Fast movement and loud noises will send them away. Stillness brings them closer.

There is something special about drifting along and a seal pops its head out of the water to check you out, or watching an otter go about its business a few metres from your bow. These moments are not guaranteed, but they can happen.

A note about resting seals and sea lions
If we see seals or sea lions resting on rocks, we let them be. They use rocks to absorb warmth and regulate body temperature throughout the day. We aim to give them enough space to do this undisturbed. They startle easily and sometimes unavoidably; our aim is always to observe from a distance and let them rest.

If an animal does come close while we are on the water, stay calm. Follow your guide’s lead at all times. We do not feed wildlife and we do not encourage animals to approach.

A note about whales
One of the questions we hear most often is: when are the whales coming? Saturna Island is one of the best places in BC to watch whales from shore, particularly at East Point.

On our typical paddling routes, encountering a whale on the water is extremely rare. If we are that fortunate, there are specific rules we follow. The most important one is to keep our distance and give them space. Whales are typically travelling, resting, or hunting and they are not interested in us. We observe quietly and stay with our group. You can read more about the rules for kayaking near whales on our kayaking near killer whales page.

A note about sharks
 We have not spotted any sharks in our paddling area.

Not a Beginner — But It Has Been a While?

With enough notice, we can arrange for you to paddle in a tandem kayak with a guide. This gives you the support and confidence to get back into paddling and enjoy the special moments on the water. Reach out and let us know your situation and we will make it work.

The Paddle Canada Basic Skills Course — A Different Kind of First Day

If you are interested in developing real paddling skills rather than a guided tour, the Paddle Canada Basic Skills course is a full day dedicated to that.

Over eight hours, you build a solid skill set including forward and turning strokes, bracing, and essential safety skills and knowledge. You will practice re-entry after a capsize and learn how to assist another paddler back into their boat. Course participants wear a sprayskirt, which is provided. We include use of a sea kayak and all safety gear with our Basic and Level 1 Courses at no extra cost.

This course does not focus on sightseeing or exploring. It is designed to build confidence and sound decision-making on the water. It is the foundation for everything that comes after. If you have paddled a few times before, Level 1 may be more appropriate for you. Reach out if you are unclear which course is right for you.

The Door That Opens

Most people do not expect how their first guided paddle will feel. The ocean has become a place they know how to enter. A recent guest said it felt like being in a movie.

If you are ready to experience it for yourself, we would love to take you out.

Our guided tours that are suitable for first-time paddlers include the Scenic Saturna by Sea Kayak three-hour tour, the Sunset Golden Hour two-hour evening paddle, and the Sea Star Watch Paddle two-hour tour focused on the remarkable intertidal life of Saturna’s rocky shores. All are suitable for beginners and all include everything you need.

Book a guided tour Learn more about the Paddle Canada Basic Skills course

Your Questions Answered Before You Go

Physical Ability and Fitness

Am I strong enough or fit enough to kayak? You do not need to be an athlete to enjoy sea kayaking. We keep the pace to suit everyone in the group and we teach you techniques that makes kayaking a whole-body movement rather than just an arm workout. If you can sit comfortably and move your torso, you can paddle.

What if I cannot keep up with the group? When you book, let us know if this is a concern. We keep a pace to suit everyone in the group, and, where needed, we can match you with a guide in a tandem kayak for more efficiency and confidence.

I have a bad back, a bad shoulder, or limited mobility. Can I still paddle? Please reach out before booking and tell us about your specific challenges. The details help us find a suitable solution. Kayaking techniques works with the larger muscle groups and the whole body, which means many people with physical limitations paddle comfortably once they find the right movement. We want to make it work for you if we can.

I am concerned about my size. Can I still kayak? We ask all customers to provide their approximate height and weight when booking so we can make sure we have a suitable kayak and PFD ready for you. Once we have your measurements, we can give you a clear answer.

What if I get tired halfway through? We check in regularly throughout every tour and encourage open communication about how everyone is doing. Let us know if you feel tired or pain while paddling. We will adjust the tour accordingly. The guide also carries a towline for emergency use.

Safety and Capsizing

Will I tip over? We fit you in a kayak that is appropriate for a beginner, stable, and not easily tipped. Capsizing on a guided tour is rare.

I am not a strong swimmer. Is that a problem? No. You will be wearing a correctly fitted PFD at all times on the water. You do not need to be a strong swimmer to paddle with us safely.

What happens if I capsize and cannot get back in on my own? We will get you back in your boat. We use several assisted re-entry techniques and choose whichever suits the situation. We also carry a VHF radio should we need outside assistance in an emergency situation. Before you launch, we walk you through the basics of re-entry.

Is the water cold? Yes. The water around Saturna Island is between 8 and 11 degrees Celsius year-round. This is why we have safety checks, why we dress appropriately, and why we do not take unnecessary risks with conditions or routes. Getting wet when you are prepared for it is manageable.

Practical Comfort

What if I need to use the bathroom? Right next to our kayaking dock is a BC Ferries waiting area with two bathrooms, accessible most of the time. We recommend visiting just before launch. Tours with a beach break may include a beach with an outhouse. For other nature breaks in the field, they are just that. We carry toilet tissue and a trowel for the group and practice Leave No Trace principles.

What if I get seasick or motion sick? If you tend to get seasick on boats, it is worth taking medication before your tour as a precaution. In our experience, kayaking affects people differently from larger vessels and many people who feel unwell on ferries or powerboats are perfectly comfortable in a kayak. That said, everyone is different. We carry a first aid kit, but please bring any personal medications with you.

Can I wear glasses? Yes. We recommend using a retainer so they stay secure on the water. Salt water splashes may require a clean after the paddle. For capsize practices during the Basic Skills course, we can hold your glasses while you get wet with intent, or a suitable retainer will do the job.

What if it rains? Heavy rain may be a reason to reschedule. Light rain is not a safety concern and can be a beautifully immersive experience on the water. We are a small business and if we can accommodate a reschedule to make your first time on the water more comfortable, we will always try our best.

Wildlife and Environment

Will we see whales? Saturna Island is known as one of BC’s premier whale-watching destinations, particularly from the shore at East Point. On our typical paddling routes, encountering a whale on the water is extremely rare. If we are that fortunate, we follow a set of rules: keep our distance, stay quiet, give them space, and raft as a group if safe to do so.

Are there sharks? We have not encountered any sharks you might be thinking of in our paddling area. Strictly speaking, dogfish are a type of shark. They are small and they prey on small fish, squid, and crustaceans. If you fish in the waters surrounding Saturna Island, you may catch dogfish before anything else.

What if a seal or sea lion gets too close? We have not experienced aggressive behaviour from marine mammals in our area. We do not encourage wildlife to interact or approach, and we do not feed animals. If something does come close, stay calm, look to your guide, and consider whether there may be a young animal nearby that it is protecting. Follow your guide’s lead.

Anxiety and Control

What if I panic on the water? Let us know before launching if you have concerns or traumatic experiences with watersports. If you need to speak with us as we go, get our attention. If we see that you are struggling, we will come to you. There is no situation on the water that we have not encountered before, and your safety and wellbeing are our priority.

What if I fall behind or get separated from the group? We aim to keep everyone together throughout. If you fall behind without anyone noticing, use your whistle if verbal communication is ineffective and until you have our attention.

What if the weather changes while we are out? We monitor weather and conditions continuously as we paddle and always have a plan B in mind. If conditions change in a way that affects safety, we will adjust our route or return to the dock. Your safety is always the priority.

Have a question that is not answered here? Visit our FAQ page or get in touch and we are happy to hear from you before you book.

Googlemaps Saturna Island image

How to Get to Saturna Island: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go

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Saturna Island… Hard to get to, harder to leave — but so worth it.

Saturna is one of the most beautiful and least visited of the Southern Gulf Islands. How to get to Saturna Island takes a little planning, but that’s part of what makes it special. This guide covers every way to reach Saturna and everything you need to know before you arrive.

Where Is Saturna Island?

Saturna Island sits in the Southern Gulf Islands of British Columbia, between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland. It’s the most southeasterly of the main Gulf Islands, closer to Washington State than to Vancouver. That geography works in its favour: Saturna sits in the rain shadow of Vancouver Island, giving it some of the warmest and driest conditions in all of coastal BC.

We operate from Lyall Harbour, right next to the BC Ferries terminal. You don’t need a car to reach us.

Getting to Saturna by BC Ferries

BC Ferries is how most people arrive on Saturna Island. There are two departure points: Tsawwassen on the BC mainland, and Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island near Victoria.

One important thing to know before you plan: only about four ferries serve Saturna on most days, with many hours between sailings. This is not a route where you can simply show up and catch the next boat. Check the current schedule at bcferries.com well in advance and plan your entire day around the ferry times. BC Ferries schedules change several times a year and can vary from one day to the next, so always confirm the current timetable before you travel.

Ferries on both routes have snacks and drinks available for purchase on board.

At the Saturna terminal: The BC Ferries terminal at Lyall Harbour has a small waiting area with a washroom next to the loading ramp, accessible most of the time during the day. Free wifi is available.

From Tsawwassen (BC Mainland / Metro Vancouver)

Tsawwassen is about 45 minutes south of downtown Vancouver by car or public transit. There is no direct ferry from Tsawwassen to Saturna. All sailings involve a transfer. The more direct route typically transfers at Mayne Island after stopping at Galiano Island. The indirect path is via the “big ferries” to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island.

BC Ferries offers a Thru Fare option for the indirect route via Swartz Bay. The onward leg from Swartz Bay to Saturna is included at no extra charge on top of your Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay fare when booked ahead.

Book your Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay sailing online in advance — a Saver or Prepaid fare gives you the best price. When you arrive at the Tsawwassen ticket booth, tell the agent your final destination is Saturna Island and that you want the Thru Fare. No extra charges will be applied on top of what you have already paid. For full current details on fare types, booking options and any reimbursement (should you reserve vs purchase online) that may apply on select sailings, check the BC Ferries Thru Fare page at bcferries.com/routes-fares/ferry-fares/thru-fare before you travel, as the details change when schedules are updated several times a year.

The Thru Fare does not guarantee a connection. Given that only about four sailings a day serve Saturna, plan your Tsawwassen departure carefully to give yourself a comfortable connection window at Swartz Bay. If you do miss a connection, your ticket will be honoured on any Saturna sailing the same day, or up to noon the following day if you miss the last evening connection. In our experience, we’ve never been turned down.

Booking ahead: At peak times, particularly Sunday afternoons leaving Saturna and holiday Mondays, vehicle reservations from Tsawwassen are strongly recommended and likely cheaper. Foot passengers are more flexible, but if you’re bringing a vehicle, book in advance, especially during busy periods.

Active Pass — don’t miss it: On the crossing between Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay, the ferry passes through Active Pass, a narrow channel between Galiano and Mayne Islands. It’s genuinely beautiful — rocky cliffs, strong currents, wildlife, and scenery that stays with you. Find a good seat early or step outside for this section. It’s a little cruise within your crossing and well worth being on deck for.

If you’re driving: Fill up with gas before you board. Saturna has limited to no fuelling options on the island.

Fares: Fares vary by season, day of week, and vehicle type, and BC Ferries offers promotions from time to time. Check current pricing at bcferries.com. Travelling from Saturna toward the mainland is cheaper than travelling in the other direction.

From Swartz Bay (Vancouver Island / Victoria)

Swartz Bay is on the Saanich Peninsula on Vancouver Island, about 30 minutes north of downtown Victoria. The nearby town of Sidney is a lovely stop before or after your crossing, with a walkable waterfront, good cafés a few restaurants, and a well-known bookshop.

Some sailings from Swartz Bay to Saturna are direct. Others stop at other Gulf Islands (often Mayne Island and sometimes Pender Island) along the way depending on the time of day. The route and number of stops varies by sailing and the timetable is not the same every day, so always check before you travel. If transferring at Mayne Island by vehicle, follow the traffic up the hill for transfers and look for the lane number of your destination on the large notice board.

No reservations are available or needed on the Swartz Bay to Saturna route or the return. Just show up. Depending on the day and time it can be busy, but sailings are very rarely sold out.

Returning to Swartz Bay from Saturna is free of charge. If you’re planning to visit the Gulf Islands more than once, the BC Ferries Experience Card is worth investigating. It’s a prepaid card that offers significant savings on each sailing and pays off quickly for repeat travellers.

Getting to Saturna by Float Plane

Seair Seaplanes (1-800-447-3247) flies from Richmond (YVR South Terminal) to Lyall Harbour, landing right next to the ferry terminal. Flights to Saturna aren’t bookable online. Call Seair directly to check schedules and availability. A scenic way to arrive, with sweeping views over the Gulf Islands on approach.

Water Taxi and Private Boat

Island Water Taxi (1-250-656-4826) offers service from Sidney, BC on Vancouver Island, a useful option for small groups or multi-island itineraries.

If you’re arriving by private boat, Lyall Harbour has moorage. Tides and currents in the Southern Gulf Islands are significant. Consult current tide tables before crossing. Our Saturna Kayaking Resources page has up-to-date links.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

Getting around on Saturna: Saturna is hilly and spread out. How much transportation you need depends on where you’re staying. If your accommodation is not near Lyall Harbour, you’ll likely need a vehicle, bicycle, or the Saturna Lions Shuttle. Given the steep hills, an ebike is a particularly good option for getting around comfortably. And if you’re planning to explore beyond the water — which we highly recommend — getting around becomes more important. Two highlights that aren’t easily reached by kayak are East Point, one of the best land-based whale watching spots in the Southern Gulf Islands, and Mount Warburton Pike, with panoramic views that make the climb very much worthwhile. Factor transport into your planning and give yourself time to see them.

Saturna Lions Shuttle: The Saturna Lions Club runs a seasonal, pre-booked transportation service by donation. Contact them at least 48 hours in advance at saturnashuttle@gmail.com. This is a community service — please donate generously.

Food and drink near the terminal: Within walking distance of the Lyall Harbour terminal you’ll find the Lighthouse pub and Dee’s Dairy, a café. Both have limited and variable opening hours and offerings, so don’t count on them being open when you need them. Plan your meals accordingly. Saturna does have other dining options on the island, but these are the ones closest to the ferry. The hours and menu fluctuate greatly throughout the year, with several only operating in the summer season. And a friendly reminder: no drinks before paddling.

Groceries and supplies: Saturna has a small grocery store, but if you have specific items in mind, bring them from the mainland or pick them up in Sidney before you board. Don’t count on finding everything here. Seasonally with luck you may find a small selection of local produce and treats at little roadside stands and the Saturday market outside the General Store.

Gas: Fill up before you arrive. Depending on the day there are very limited to zero options for fuel on the island.

Garbage and waste: There are no public garbage facilities on Saturna Island. Whatever you bring, you carry out. This applies to everything, including dog waste. If you’re staying at a booked accommodation your host may help with disposal, but for example at the Parks Canada campsite at Narvaez Bay there are no waste facilities at all. Come prepared to leave no trace, fully.

Where to Stay on Saturna Island

Saturna Lodge, run by our friends in Boot Cove, is a wonderful place to stay. A character-filled inn set above a beautifully sheltered harbour, it offers comfortable rooms, outstanding breakfasts, and a warm welcome from hosts who know this island as well as anyone. Highly recommended.

A charming location for sunsets is Bella Haven at Lyall Harbor Beach. Oceanfront Beach House.  Sleeps 2.

We’re happy to make additional recommendations personally when you book. Reach us at info@kayakingskills.com or text 604-725-8897.

For camping there are two options. The Arbutus Campsite is a two-minute walk from our launch location at Lyall Harbour, very convenient if you’re joining a tour or course. It has potable water, washrooms, and easy access to the pub and café nearby.

The Narvaez Bay Campground is a Parks Canada backcountry site on one of the most beautiful and undisturbed bays in the Southern Gulf Islands. It’s a 1.7 km hike in from the end of Narvaez Bay Road, with sites situated right by the beach. Facilities are minimal: an outhouse and a food cache, no water and no waste disposal. Come fully prepared to carry everything out. The campground has 7 sites and books out regularly in summer, though a small overflow area is available when the main sites are full. Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made at reservation.pc.gc.ca.

Ready to Paddle?

Browse our tours and courses and book through FareHarbor, or text us at 604-725-8897. We offer customised tours for families too — just get in touch and we’ll put something together that works for your group.

For current tides, winds, and marine conditions on Saturna, visit our Saturna Kayaking Resources page.

Hard to get to, harder to leave — but so worth it. 🌊

Sea kayaker watching a killer whale dorsal fin at safe distance, Southern Gulf Islands BC

Kayaking near killer whales on Saturna Island: what paddlers need to know

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Saturna Island sits at the heart of some of the most productive killer whale habitat on Canada’s Pacific coast. East Point, at the island’s northeastern tip, is one of the finest land-based orca viewing spots in the country. Boiling Reef, just offshore, concentrates fish and draws feeding whales reliably enough that locals time their summers around the sightings.

If you’re paddling here between May and November, there is a small chance you may encounter killer whales on the water. That possibility is part of what draws people to this area and it comes with real responsibilities. This article explains what the rules are, what they mean practically for kayakers, and how to conduct yourself if whales appear while you’re on the water.

The legal framework: two layers of protection

Killer whale protections in Canadian Pacific waters come from two separate pieces of federal legislation, administered by two different departments.

The Marine Mammal Regulations (Fisheries and Oceans Canada) are permanent, year-round rules that apply to all cetaceans in Canadian waters. They require all vessels including kayaks to maintain minimum approach distances from whales, porpoises and dolphins at all times.

The Interim Order for the Protection of the Killer Whale (Transport Canada, issued under the Canada Shipping Act) creates additional, stronger seasonal measures from June 1 to November 30 each year. This is where the Vessel Restricted Zones and enhanced approach distances originate. The Interim Order is renewed annually and the specific boundaries and distances can change from year to year.

For the most current regulations before any paddle, always check the DFO 2026 management measures page and the Transport Canada Interim Order directly. These are the authoritative, updated sources.

Approach distances: how close can you get?

From June 1, 2026 onward, vessels including human-powered vessels must stay 1,000 metres away from Southern Resident killer whales in southern BC coastal waters between Campbell River and just north of Ucluelet. (Before June 1, 2026, the distance requirement is 400 metres from all killer whales in this zone.)

Canada has now formalised the 1,000 m SRKW approach distance as a permanent amendment to the Marine Mammal Regulations, taking effect June 1, 2026.

For all other killer whales including Bigg’s (transient) killer whales, and for humpback whales and other cetaceans, the Marine Mammal Regulations require:

  • 200 m from any whale, porpoise or dolphin that is resting or accompanied by a calf
  • 100 m from other whales, porpoises and dolphins

There is no exemption from approach distances for human-powered vessels. The 1,000 m rule applies to kayaks equally.

Vessel Restricted Zones: where kayakers need to pay close attention

From June 1 to November 30 each year, Vessel Restricted Zones are in effect in the waters off Saturna Island around East Point, Boiling Reef and towards Narvaez Bay, and separately in waters off Pender Island. No vessels may navigate in these zones during this period, with limited exceptions.

The exception that applies to kayakers: human-powered vessels may transit through a Vessel Restricted Zone, but only within a corridor of 20 metres or less from the shoreline. This is a narrow strip roughly the combined length of four to five single sea kayaks, hugging the rocks and kelp line.

Management measures to protect Southern Resident killer whales, Gulf Islands region, including Vessel Restricted Zones off Saturna and Pender Islands. Fisheries and Oceans Canada, 2026.

Map: 2026 Management Measures to Protect Southern Resident Killer Whales — Gulf Islands. © Fisheries and Oceans Canada. Reproduced for non-commercial purposes. Source: pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca. This map is updated annually — always verify current restrictions at the source before paddling. This is the Saturna Island relevant map.

Paddling that corridor (actually the entire area anytime) requires judgment. The shoreline along East Point and Boiling Reef is exposed, rocky, and subject to winds and strong tidal current. The corridor was established specifically because earlier restrictions left paddlers no shoreline option and pushed them into open water near the international boundary and strong tidal flows, creating genuine safety hazards. That change came about through direct consultation between DFO, Transport Canada, local paddlers, and kayak instructors including members of the Saturna Island community who knew the water and were able to describe the problem clearly. If conditions make the corridor unsafe on a given day, do not enter it. The rules do not require you to paddle somewhere dangerous.

In Tumbo Channel, on the north side of Saturna Island, a voluntary speed reduction zone asks all vessels to reduce speed to no more than 10 knots when safe to do so, from June 1 to November 30. As a kayaker you will be well within this, but it is worth knowing when other vessels around you may or may not be complying.

Which whale is which

Three species of large cetaceans are regularly seen in these waters during summer and fall: Southern Resident killer whales, Bigg’s (transient) killer whales, and humpback whales.

Humpback whales are visually unmistakable. Their size, the broad back and small dorsal fin, and above all the wide flukes they raise before a deep dive make them easy to identify at any reasonable distance. Unlike killer whales, humpbacks do not have biosonar and are not always aware of vessels around them. They may surface unexpectedly close, travel in unpredictable patterns, or rest just below the surface. Treat any nearby humpback as a genuine proximity risk and give them as much room as conditions allow.

Distinguishing whether a killer whale is a Southern Resident or a Bigg’s (transient) in the moment, from water level, while managing your boat, is genuinely difficult even for experienced observers. Saddle patch shape and dorsal fin profile are the key visual markers, but they require a clear, sustained look that you may not always get. Their behaviour may give more indications. For example: Southern Resident Killer Whales often travel in larger pods of ten or more. Transients mostly are seen in smaller groups, and behaving more stealthy and quietly when hunting.

The practical answer is straightforward: if you see killer whales and you are not certain of the ecotype, apply the most protective rules and treat them as Southern Residents. The Marine Mammal Regulations protect all cetaceans regardless of ecotype and the spirit of all these measures is the same: do not interfere with the animals’ behaviour.

If whales come to you

This is the question most paddlers want answered. What do you do when whales appear near you while you’re paddling legally, in the right place, following all the rules?

This can happen. Whales move and a pod that was distant when you first noticed them, may surface near you. You have not done anything wrong.

Stop paddling. Rest your paddle across your deck, if the sea state allows. Be still and quiet. A stationary kayak creates far less acoustic and physical disturbance than one that is moving and splashing. If you are in a group, unless you are spread out too much, it is recommended to raft together as a group.

Do not reposition. Do not paddle toward them to improve your view and do not paddle away in panic. Sudden movement and the sound of a paddle entering the water repeatedly is more disruptive than a quiet, stationary boat. If you need to move for safety reasons, do so slowly and deliberately.

Let them set the agenda. Whales are not unaware of you (humpback whales can be less aware). If a pod passes close, they have made a choice about their proximity. Your job is to be a neutral presence: not to engage, not to follow, not to optimise the encounter for photography. Watch. Be present and alert.

Do not position yourself in their path. This is a legal requirement under the Interim Order as well as the right thing to do. If you can anticipate the direction of travel, move clear of it early and calmly.

When the whales have moved on, note the time, your location, and the number of animals. Reporting your sighting contributes to the monitoring data that informs these regulations.

The chance to be on the water near killer whales is one of the genuinely remarkable things about paddling in the Southern Gulf Islands. It asks something of you in return: restraint, patience, and the discipline to let the moment be what it is.

For a first-hand account of what it feels like when orcas pass close to a stationary kayak, read Ruth’s Kayaking with Orcas story from Narvaez Bay.

If you witness a violation

If you observe a motorised vessel approaching whales in clear breach of the regulations, note as much detail as you safely can: vessel description, registration number if visible, colour, type, and the time and location of the incident. Report it to the DFO Observe, Record and Report line as soon as you are able. Video footage can be very helpful to verify distance and behaviour of boaters.

DFO Observe, Record and Report (24 hours): 1-800-465-4336

A note on cell coverage: signal around East Point is unreliable and you may find your phone has connected to a US carrier rather than a Canadian one. Be aware that a call to 1-800-465-4336 may not connect as expected on a US roaming connection. Log what you witnessed and make the report when you have reliable Canadian coverage. If the situation involves immediate danger to people, use VHF Channel 16 to reach the Coast Guard.

Why these protections exist

Southern Resident killer whales were listed as Endangered under Canada’s Species at Risk Act in 2003. The population numbers fewer than 75 animals. The three primary threats are reduced prey availability (primarily Chinook salmon), acoustic and physical disturbance, and contaminants. All three require sustained, collective effort to address.

Paddler behaviour connects most directly to the disturbance threat through physical presence rather than noise. A kayak at the wrong distance at the wrong moment, near resting whales, close to active feeding, or across a travel path, is enough to alter behaviour without producing a single decibel of sound. Be observant on the water: are the whales resting, feeding, or travelling? Your awareness of what the animals are doing shapes how you respond to their presence.

The regulations are actively evolving. Canada has now formalised the 1,000 m SRKW approach distance as a permanent amendment to the Marine Mammal Regulations, taking effect June 1, 2026.

Resources

A note on this article: Regulations change annually. We update this page when new measures are announced, but always verify current restrictions at the DFO and Transport Canada links above before paddling in this area.

Sea kayaking past tafoni sandstone formations on Saturna Island BC

Why Saturna Island is One of BC’s Best Sea Kayaking Destinations

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If you are looking for a sea kayaking destination in British Columbia that combines world-class paddling conditions, extraordinary wildlife, and an unspoiled natural environment, Saturna Island deserves to be at the top of your list. Tucked into the southern end of the Gulf Islands, Saturna is the least developed and least visited of the Southern Gulf Islands accessible by BC Ferries. While Salt Spring Island draws the crowds and Galiano gets the day-trippers, Saturna remains quietly, gloriously itself. A wild and largely undisturbed island where the paddling is as good as anywhere on the BC coast.

The Southern Gulf Islands sit in the Salish Sea, the inland sea stretching between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland. This is one of the most productive marine ecosystems on the planet, a place where cold, nutrient-rich waters support extraordinary concentrations of marine life, from microscopic plankton all the way up to orcas and humpback whales. For sea kayakers, the Gulf Islands offer a uniquely sheltered yet dynamic environment. The islands themselves provide protection from open ocean swells, making conditions manageable for paddlers of many skill levels. At the same time, the tidal currents that run between the islands create challenging and technically interesting water for those seeking to develop their skills. The scenery is stunning in every direction. Forested hillsides drop to rocky shorelines of weathered sandstone. Kelp beds sway in the current. Seals haul out on sun-warmed rocks. Eagles circle overhead. On a clear day the views stretch from the Coast Mountains to the Olympic Peninsula.

Every Gulf Island has its appeal, but Saturna offers something the others cannot match: genuine remoteness combined with exceptional paddling conditions. With a permanent population of only a few hundred people and almost half the island protected as parkland, Saturna has resisted the development that has changed the character of larger Gulf Islands. On a paddle around Saturna you are likely to have the coastline largely to yourself. One exception worth knowing: if you are leaving the island on a Sunday afternoon in summer, expect a long BC Ferries lineup. Plan accordingly!

The waters around Saturna are shaped by some of the strongest tidal currents in the Southern Gulf Islands. East Point, at the island’s eastern tip, sits at the confluence of Boundary Pass and the Strait of Georgia; one of the most dynamic tidal environments on the BC coast. The western tip of the island is equally compelling, with powerful currents running through Boat Passage. For paddlers looking to develop genuine sea kayaking skills, there is no better classroom in the region. And yet Saturna is not only for advanced paddlers. The island’s west shore, with its sheltered bays, tafoni sandstone formations, eelgrass meadows, and intertidal zones, offers gentle and endlessly interesting paddling for beginners and families. The range of experiences available within a short distance of the government dock is remarkable.

Wildlife is one of the great joys of paddling around Saturna Island. Harbour seals are a near-constant presence; curious yet easily startled, often watching from the rocks as you pass. Bald eagles nest throughout the island and are spotted on almost every paddle. Great blue herons stand motionless in the shallows. River otters slip through the kelp. Seabirds perch on tiny ledges in the sandstone cliffs. Saturna’s famous feral goats sometimes make an appearance along the rocky shoreline at Taylor Bay, occasionally venturing right to the water’s edge to nibble seaweed. One of those only-on-Saturna moments that guests talk about long after they have returned home. The waters around Saturna also lie within the critical habitat of the Southern Resident killer whales. Orca sightings are not guaranteed, but they happen; particularly in the waters east of the island near East Point, which is also renowned as one of the finest whale watching spots from shore on the entire BC coast. Humpback whales have also been spotted with increasing frequency in recent years. East Point is frequently visited by researchers studying whales and porpoises from the shore, and they are often open to sharing their findings with visitors.

One of the things that makes Saturna such a compelling destination is that it genuinely offers something for everyone. Complete beginners can join a guided tour along the west shore, exploring the tafoni coastline and intertidal zones in sheltered water with an experienced guide. No prior experience is needed; just curiosity and a sense of adventure. Those looking to develop their paddling skills can enrol in a Paddle Canada certified course. KayakingSkills offers Basic through Level 2 courses, all taught by certified instructors including a Paddle Canada Instructor Trainer. The tidal environment around Saturna provides real-world conditions that accelerate learning in ways that flat-water training simply cannot. Advanced paddlers will find plenty to challenge them. Samuel Island circumnavigation, the waters around East Point and Boiling Reef, Tumbo Island; these are destinations that demand experience, judgment, and solid technical skills, and reward those who bring them with paddling experiences that are hard to match anywhere in BC.

Saturna Island is served by BC Ferries from Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay. The ferry journey through Active Pass and the Southern Gulf Islands is spectacular in its own right; a preview of the scenery that awaits on the water. Float plane service is also available directly to the government dock. The KayakingSkills base is one minute from the Lyall Harbour ferry terminal. Step off the ferry and you are on the water within minutes.

Saturna Island is not the easiest Gulf Island to get to. That is precisely why it remains so special. The visitors who make the journey tend to be people who value wild places, unhurried experiences, and genuine connection with the natural world. If that sounds like you, we would love to show you our island from the water. KayakingSkills offers guided tours and Paddle Canada certified courses from May through September. Groups are small, instruction is personal, and the setting is unlike anywhere else in BC. Text us at 604-725-8897 to book or enquire. Texting is the most reliable way to reach us on Saturna Island.

Come and kayak with us on the majestic Salish Sea. Here is more about getting to Saturna Island.

SRKW Interim and Sea Kayakers Boiling Reef Saturna Island

SRKW Interim Order and Sea Kayakers

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Please note: This article was written in 2019 and the regulatory framework it describes has changed significantly. The Interim Sanctuary Zone no longer exists under that name, approach distances have been updated, and a shoreline corridor for human-powered vessels is now in place. For current information please read our updated guide: Kayaking near killer whales on Saturna Island: what paddlers need to know.

2019 article below.

From the perspective of a Saturna Island based Sea Kayaker and Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor.

Sea kayaking is a great way to explore Saturna Island and the Salish Sea. BC Marine Trails connect some of the Gulf Islands for kayakers, going around the east side of Saturna. The route connects Narvaez Bay and Cabbage Island campsites that have marine access. We wanted to know if the new Interim Zone to protect the Southern Resident killer whales (SRKW) would mean an end to circumnavigating Saturna Island by sea kayak.

SRKW Boiling Reef Interim Zone – shaded

The image that I drew over a nautical chart illustrates the Interim Zone (Saturna Island portion shown only, gray shade) which prohibits general vessel traffic including kayakers between June 1st to October 31st.

Here is a link to the Transport Canada issued Interim Order.

Sea kayakers travelling around Saturna Island must pass the east side of Saturna cautiously; keeping in mind currents, shipping channels and the United States border. A previous article took a look at currents around Boiling Reef. Avoiding the Interim Zone increases risks.

I compared two likely routes from the south east side of Narveaz Bay to Tumbo Island (both locations are en route when circumnavigating Saturna). The white line is the safer shore paddle route (about 2.6 nautical miles (NM)), the black line (about 3.5 NM) that avoids the Interim Zone is less safe.

SRKW Interim and Sea Kayakers Boiling Reef Saturna Island

While it potentially only takes 20 minutes longer to travel this way, it means that about 2 NM (40 minutes paddling for a good paddler and good conditions) would be in waters that are hazardous. Keeping track of the exact location of oneself and the Interim zone while travelling in a sea kayak and avoiding the shipping lane, requires good GPS technology or advanced navigation skills. There are no markers on the water. Sea kayakers most often travel along shores.

A safety-stop at Shell Beach helps a kayaker to assess current conditions for safe paddling (especially if travelling south). Whales do not usually come to Shell Beach, but technically speaking it is in the Zone. I had one close encounter with killer whales in a sea kayak. The whales were Transients and outside the Interim Zone, close to Fiddler’s Cove. The Interim Zone at large is mostly a place for transiting in a kayak due to the strong currents that often prevail… idling for long periods is rarely an option.

Saturna Islander, David Osborne phoned Transport Canada and received an official email response addressing some of his concerns.

Find the full email. Here is an extract:

“However, marine safety is priority. If it is unsafe to comply with the rules, vessel operators are exempted to avoid immediate or unforeseen danger. If this is the case, Kayakers must transit through the area (cannot idle) and stay a minimum 400 metres from whales when safe to do so. ”

So, if you see kayakers transiting the Interim Zone, they are likely doing so for marine safety reasons.

KayakingSkills.com promote best practices regarding wildlife, i.e. to not disturb the animal’s natural behaviour or put oneself at risk and to abide by advised distances when safe to do so.

To conclude, circumnavigation of Saturna Island is possible and if it is unsafe to comply with the Interim Zone, it is appropriate to transit through it.

Read FAQs on the Interim Order here.

Happy & Safe Paddling!

Hovercraft 1

Boiling Reef Rescue by Hovercraft

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Pictures taken by Louise Peramaki

Easter 2019, Saturna Island

Currents at Boiling Reef during ebb at a spring tide

Boating Hazards at Boiling Reef, East Point

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Recent rescue scenarios at Boiling Reef prompted me to get this article out quickly. Just this past Easter Sunday two people using a small inflatable boat who had drifted beyond their control were rescued from the reef by Hovercraft thanks to the emergency call-out by some onlookers. A sailboat stranded on the reef and at several occasions over the past years, kayaks have capsized, and the paddlers were unable to re-enter without outside assistance, sometimes capsizing their peers that tried to help.

Visitors to Saturna Island are often unaware of the hazardous waters at Boiling Reef, East Point.

Look at the Nautical Chart and Current Atlas images to notice the hazards in the area. Both publications can be purchased at marine stores.

Boiling Reef, East Point Area

Unless you fully understand when to go kayaking (or boating in general), take a course first. These waters require the right boat, skills and conditions to safely navigate them. Shell Beach at East Point can occur deceivingly calm and sheltered. The current flowing between Saturna and Tumbo islands moves toward Boiling Reef at flood and ebb. A small vessel that is lightweight with a large surface area (i.e. inflatable kayak) quickly acts like a sail and becomes impossible to control in currents with enough wind added, even for an athletic person. Here strong currents, rips, eddies, waves and increase of wind effects are not obvious to the untrained eye and using a marine chart is crucial to help identify hazards.

Additional factors: Spring tides around full and new moons mean greater water fluctuation and faster currents, increasing the risk of capsize or being carried out and off to the United States. Capsize of any vessel can potentially lead to its passenger’s death by drowning or hypothermia after prolonged exposure to cold water.

When approaching a headland (i.e. Monarch Head, East Point), currents that funnel or form eddies can change significantly, also wind speed and direction, potentially resulting in a quite different sea state.

From East Point along Cliffside and all the way to Monarch Head there are potentially strong currents also, even at the occasion that Boiling Reef itself shows little indication. Our resources page has a link to current speed data for Boundary Pass near East Point.

Sea kayaks are designed with the ocean in mind but require training and practice for proper use. Some are intended to handle waves and dynamic conditions while others target forward speed on flat water and require more balancing skills. Recreational kayaks from large retail stores are typically made for flat, sheltered water and are unsuitable for venturing into areas like Boiling Reef, East Point. Some do not have enclosed buoyant compartments that displace water to prevent sinking if capsized.

Things you can do to paddle safely: take a course and learn about safe paddling conditions, gather local knowledge of areas you intend to explore, practice rescues, learn risk assessment and reading nautical charts, use the right boat and safety equipment, paddle with peers that also know how to rescue you, check weather, tides and currents, paddle in conditions that you are skilled to handle, and file a float plan with a reliable friend. Wear immersion gear and PFD, we are surrounded by cold water throughout the year. Avoid strong currents by choosing neap tides around first and third quarter moons. Use our KayakingSkills.com Saturna Kayaking Resources page.

KayakingSkills.com teach essentials of tides and currents and about hazards to avoid on your sea kayaking adventures. Our intermediate courses include rescue practices in waves and currents.

 

Deer Group Islands the Tarp

Deer Group Paddling Tales – Part 2

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The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. A previous article told the story of humpback whale encounters that we made during the second day of a multi-day kayak camping adventure in this gorgeous area. This is Part 2 of our trip.

The next day is a rainy one. The sound of the ongoing dribble keeps us cozy in our sleeping bags, reading. Just odd splashes of irregular waves coming into the bay 30 feet away spark my curiosity to peak through the opening of our well-used tent. The air is moist, and you can smell the earth and ocean. The shiny thin layer of water on rocks, shells and trees gives their subtle natural colours life. We enjoy some downtime after yesterday’s long paddle. The weather forecast predicts three more days of rain for this late autumn adventure. We opt to head back home later today.

Equipped in rain jacket and rain hat I crawl out of our tent to prepare breakfast. I had put up a shelter when we first arrived to be prepared for potential rain. Our green lightweight tarp is strapped over a ridge line and four corners connected with rope nicely tightened, up as high as I could reach. I inspect my back then first solo tarping job in action and troubleshoot it. Two more long sticks will help lift the edges. I watch how the rain slides off one side in a controlled stream as intended. The other side pools up, quite useful for washing dishes under the draining area when lifted slightly to roll over the edge. I am proud of the small accomplishment and glad to have shelter from the ongoing rain. Fred joins me for hot tea and a bowl of steaming cinnamon oatmeal with nuts and fruits. We watch the rain drizzle over the ocean with the warmth of a small campfire that Fred built under our tarp shelter. Being located in the fog bank, the Deer Group Islands allow campfires year-round. This place is serene, wild and beautiful even in the rain. We have had this islet to ourselves over the past days.

Deer Group Islands in the sunshine

Skies clear, the sun gently warms and dries the ground as we break camp and pack our gear. We make sure to leave the islet as we found it, just taking with us what we brought, and beach found garbage we can fit. The way back to our car is a five nautical mile paddle, not too long. We should be able to get there within two hours, though the ocean is stirred up with variable winds and confused seas. In our kayaks we appreciate the skills we have learned over the past few years that help us make better judgement and deal with the dynamic conditions. We understand that our skills fit this sea state and that it is in the upper limits of when we paddle. We will need to cross the passage. Winds shift and change here, so does the direction of the waves, sometimes lifting our kayaks up high, sometimes lowering us down, unable to see the other. This sea state demands focus on the waves and limits your ability to turn around and look for one another. We stay reasonably close together to be able to see and hear the other. Waves often run sideways at us. The wind and waves sound loudly, and our voices don’t carry far. I am glad that we planned the crossing and have kayaked together enough to know the other’s ability, limitations and needs. Thirty minutes into the crossing we find ourselves in tune with the rocking waves, the paddle controlled by us, steadily moving us closer to the destination stroke by stroke. In these waves, the mind reaches a meditative state; I feel one with the ocean. There is something special about moving along on the water in a small vessel while being so close to the water surface, occasionally touching it.

Suddenly, I hear the sounds of large objects hitting the water surface through the wind. Sure enough, humpback whales are out on the passage. I shout “Fred, Whales. Let’s raft up and watch.” “No, let’s keep moving.” A little disappointed by the sensible husband, I must agree… it is best we carry on the crossing. Sometimes we have to choose wisely and give up on immediate gratification for a bigger outcome… we intend to catch the ferry home tonight. Rafting would delay us. Occasionally the whales surface at a distance. We keep extra space in these unsteady waters. Humpback whales in particular can be unaware of boats including kayaks.

As we reach the destination shore side, waves become smaller and winds settle. After a brief stretch of our legs and freshening up, we unload the boats, dry out the tent in sun and a light breeze, pack the car and load the kayaks. During the way home on a bumpy logging road, a stop for grocery shopping and a two-hour ferry ride, we exchange experiences and reflect on the past days. We plan to return to this special area soon.

Welcome to Bamfield sign near the Deer Group Islands

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group or Saturna Island, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or the Southern Gulf Islands. The programs include theory and practical skills that are relevant for safe sea kayaking adventures. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills or join a paddling adventure.

Sea Caves at the Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

Deer Group Paddling Tales

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The Deer Group Islands are in the south east corner of Barkley Sound off Bamfield, British Columbia. They are less known and harder to get to than the neighbouring Broken Group of Islands.

Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

We love the Deer Group Islands for their ruggedness, arches and narrow sea caves that you can access by sea kayak or similar craft only. You may find yourself in water vapour clouds of fog temporarily, followed by clear skies, an ideal playground for navigating with a compass.

Fog in the Deer Group Islands, Barkley Sound

During this trip we heard whales at night and saw them from afar from the beach. Having paddled all day today, we are surprised that we have not seen any whales since we got on the water, only some splashing across the channel, some one or two nautical miles out on the water prior launching. What a tease! This way-too-far-away spectacle lasted throughout a relaxed breakfast.

Tired toward the end of today’s long and exposed paddle in stirred up waters and stiff winds, we pull in at a sandy beach for a last breather and deserved rest. Earlier this afternoon we paddled around the exposed southern part of Edward King Island. This section offers beautiful fresh air, good size swells, waves and stunning scenery, which become even more dramatic as winds pick up. At this beach we are also able to collect firewood for the night. I pack my kayak as full as possible with small and medium size pieces for our fire. Bending forward with my head down while stuffing the stern hatch with wood of different shape and size, I hear Fred shout: “There, there, behind the rock.” I look up, see the rock that Fred points at and ask, “What is it?” “A humpback, a humpback. Right behind the rock.” “Wow.” We look out in anticipation, waiting, looking, turning to the areas nearby and staring at the unbroken water surface. We were out on the water all day without any whale sightings that we so treasure. When we encounter whales, we make sure we stay well out of their way and respect guidelines to protect the animals and us. Humpback whales especially may not be aware of your whereabouts. We walk along the water at the beach. A large tail sweeps up for a second, then disappears behind a wooded headland area. Trees are blocking our view. We run across to the other side of the narrow section of the island to try and get a glimpse of a whale emerging on the other side. We move, carefully watching our step across driftwood, rocks and seaweed patches that are accumulating to decompose and make fertilising compost in some months. We wait, we watch. We see a hump, then a little more whale, then it disappears into the horizon. Lucky us. Laughing and giggling, feeling euphoric we climb back across rocks and logs to the kayaks to continue the task at hand: pack firewood and reach camp at daylight. We get busy, clipping hatch covers into place, spray skirts on and get ready to launch for the last 30 minutes of paddling today and to arrive before sunset. Good timing, calm seas, a beautiful sky with saturated shades of orange in variations of cloud patterns set a dramatic background for this sunset scene. Once more, the humpback passes our rock, tail up and out, diving and surfacing the hump and dorsal fin, then gliding right back into the water, repeating its movement as we notice a second whale join in. The distance is 100 feet maybe. Our private humpback show from the beach is special. We observe the two whales swimming out and away toward Wizard Islet, a rock formation with a navigational light along our route. We lift the loaded kayaks onto the water, hop into the cockpits and fasten the spray decks into place for a last short paddle to our base campsite. Happy with the encounter we had, we paddle on a somewhat calm sea with light winds. Fred says: “Nice, though some breaching and jumping would have been even nicer.” It does not take long till some noises carry our way; they sound like a motorboat that travels with a steep angle at high speed and keeps slapping onto a flat-water sea, splashing loud and bold. The repeated pounding has us turn and search the horizon. And then we see them: black large shapes shooting out of the water, then crashing back onto the sea. From some distance we try to make out humpback parts that emerge and slap the water: two black panels with white shapes crash and slash forcefully again and again onto the sea. We watch in awe for fifteen minutes. Joy and excitement once again make our hearts tingle. The sun moves close to the horizon now, we leave the scene to get on our way home to our camp, every so often turning back for another glimpse of breaching and splashing whales. What a spectacular humpback show!

The whale sounds dissipating, our camp is now visible, we look forward to reaching our beach where we will build a fire, make dinner and secure our gear for the night. We pull up the boats, unload firewood, Fred builds the fire, I cook a warming stew with ginger spices. Happy and exhausted, we celebrate the day’s paddle with its adventures, whales, sea lions, the big swells around Edward King Island, the deserted romantic beach that we had lunch at and the caves and arches we had explored. It has been a successful and eventful day. A warming fire and a hot chocolate are the perfect way to complete it.

Gazing into the glowing coals, we exchange fond memories of the previous year when a humpback whale was visiting our narrow channel between this very beach and the small island across. The noise of excited seagulls screeching and flying wildly about, scooping up prey, the surface of the sea stirred up with small silver shimmering fish jumping out of the water and the humpback scooping up fish in slow motion with its mouth wide open. Two nights in a row at our dinner time we had this special visitor show up and dine next to us.

Read Deer Group Paddling Tales Part 2.

Humpback whale visiting our islet for dinner. sea gull feeding frenzy at the Deer Group, Barkley Sound

If you like to join us this year for a five-day sea kayaking expedition in the Deer Group, let us know so we can make arrangements before our summer schedule fills up.

Ruth and her husband Fred teach sea kayaking courses for various skill levels on Saturna Island and the Deer Group Islands. Level 2 courses take on expedition style for five days with overnight camping, conducted at the Deer Group Islands or circumnavigating Saturna Island. Call if you like to learn sea kayaking, enhance your skills, join a paddling adventure or find out more about their programs.

Winter Paddling on Saturna Island with KayakingSkills

Saturna Island Winter Paddling

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Temperatures have cooled, we see more rain and wind but less small boats out and about. Yes, winter is approaching. While the weather pattern has changed dramatically, we can still have a great time kayaking our gorgeous coast. Get out more this winter. Paddle safely year-round.

Top Tips for Winter Paddling:

Dress for the occasion: Sea water at shallow beach accesses will be much colder this time of the year making getting on and off the water more challenging. The air is cooler and in combination with rain or spray water, everything will feel cooler in winter. Dress for immersion, even when you do not intend to swim. Layer up and ideally wear a full dry suit. Staying comfortable while exercising in warm clothing can be challenging. You will end up sweating. Choose underlayer fabrics that breathe and wick away moisture. While the perfect solution does not yet exist, do the best you can with functional clothing pieces. We often use marino wool blend fabric layers and top them with a thin fleece underneath our dry suits. The next option is a farmer john with a padding jacket and moisture wicking upper body layers between. Neoprene booties are very helpful in winter though they certainly get wet too. Wear a polyester or wool hat to reduce heat loss from the head. These types of fabric provide warmth even when a little wet. Avoid wearing cotton full stop. Cotton is slow to dry and has a cooling effect (only desirable in hot climate and warmer waters). Before I had a dry suit, I would wear gum boots to get in and out of the kayak, multiple layers of leggings, a fleece and a rain jacket. Paddling outings are cut short if you do not have the right clothing. I highly recommend investing a little into winter paddling clothing. We use our dry suits year-round when navigating cold choppy waters away from shore and practicing re-entries.

Keep the fingers warm: make sure you have drip rings on your paddle and keep your hands outside the water most of the time. If you opt to wear neoprene gloves, make sure that they are of thick enough material to actually provide warmth and that the grip you get in them works for you. I have paddled with thin neoprene gloves that provided a cooling effect which I only realised after I took them off. Pogies are another great option. They typically Velcro fasten over the paddle shaft and you can stick your hands inside of them, fabulously protecting your hands from wind, rain and cold air.

Be seen. Even on a sunny day, daylight is limited to shorter hours with just over 8 hours between sunrise and sunset in the shortest days of the year. Best plan to be on the water in the middle of the day or even earlier. Consider bringing a watertight flashlight and a glow-stick with you in an emergency dry bag, just in case you get delayed beyond your control when out. Have reflective tape on your kayak, paddle and clothing. Wear bright colours like yellow, orange and lime green. Sea kayakers are hard to spot, especially in slight chop and if they wear dull colours. Consider that less boats on the water in winter mean less people available that could spot and help you. Assume that vessels do not see you till very close, maybe too close. Avoid collision by making yourself visible. Paddle close to shore when possible.

Check the weather and check the weather again. Gather all the data on a single sheet (download and use our KayakingSkills’ printable pdf form Saturna Island Kayak Day Trip short), especially if planning a full day trip. Look for less wind (unless you are looking for downwind paddling conditions and are skilled and fit for it), more sun and less precipitation. How much wind is ok for you will depend on your skill level. For many hobbyist kayakers winds above 12 knots feel challenging. Between Remembrance Day and March 20th, the marine weather forecast does not issue a “Strong Wind Warning” for our waters (which would be indicated at winds of 20 to 33 knots for the remainder of the year). If in doubt about the conditions, either do not go or remain in an area with easy and frequent landing options. There are windows of opportunity with sunny winter days. Enjoy the exhilarating experience of being in the fresh air on the water. It’s hard to beat!

Paddle with a partner. It is far safer to paddle with a similar or higher skill level partner. Email us to be included in our kayak group sessions. Join the Saturna Kayak Club if you are a resident of Saturna Island.

Float plan: Let someone know you are paddling, where to, and when you will be back. Make a clear arrangement with your float plan holder for the case that you are not back. Search parties in the dark are much more challenging than in daylight.

Go for shorter paddles and have an exit strategy to transition fast to getting dry and warm. Even an hour on the water feels great and you will need less time to warm up again if you get chilled or wet.

Launch and land safely: this starts with wearing the right clothing. If you try to avoid getting wet when launching and landing on a beach, you are increasing your risk of injury during these transitions. Balancing over a partially floating boat to stay dry is tempting, but not safe. Instead, wear clothing including booties that keep you warm and ideally dry. You can also launch from a dock if available. Check tides for water levels that will work for comfortable launching and landing at beaches.

Be conservative when leaving a sheltered bay: conditions around the corner may well be different. Our biggest concerns as paddlers are winds, waves and strong currents. Headlands often provide changing and challenging conditions.

Bring water, and an emergency snack, and if out for longer also pack warm liquids.

In addition to the usual safety equipment you legally must bring, make sure to always wear your PFD on the water and carry your VHF radio. I also bring a folded mylar emergency blanket in my dry bag.

Bonus tips: have some soup ready at home for when you return. All you got to do is heat it up slowly while you put away things from the trip and warm up. If you feel cold and cannot warm up easily, take a hot bath (remember to turn off that soup though till you are back to keep an eye on the stove).

Short Saturna Island shoreline paddles to do this winter – approx. total distance in nautical miles – time it takes when moving at good pace for intermediate sea kayaker (3 knots):

Winter Cove round trip – 1.5 NM – 30 min plus

Boot Cove round trip including loop around Trevor Islet – 1.75 NM – 40 min plus

Lyall Harbour around King and Queen Islets – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Winter Cove and Irish Bay round trip – 3 NM – 1 hr plus

Boot Cove to Saturna Beach round trip – 4.5 NM – 1.5 hrs plus

Lyall Harbour to Saturna Beach round trip – 5.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (As you round various points, watch out for a change of sea state and make good judgement of your ability to paddle further prior continuing.)

Winter Cove to East Point one way – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Putting in at Winter Cove, make sure to check the currents for Boat Passage to go through at slack time. East Point take out point is a bit of a walk; a lightweight kayak pays off here. Doing this stretch one way is a good option if currents and / or winds are strong. You need to arrange transport on the other side prior going, and have some warm clothing and beverages stashed at take out. This can be a fast ride if currents are in favour.)

Saturna Beach to Taylor Point round trip – 6.5 NM – 2 hrs plus (Not many landing options. You need to qualify wind and waves before putting in and allow enough time. Beware that if winds are strong, paddling into them on the way back can be hard and slow you down to crawling speed at full effort. There is no take out option for your kayak at Taylor Point; be prepared to paddle both ways.)

If you catch a high tide at Lyall Harbour, be sure to check out Lyall Creek also. It is mystical in the wintertime when you can paddle a little into this otherwise hidden little gem.

If you love kayaking in the summertime, give winter paddling a chance. It is an amazing experience when picking the right day. Fred and I had some of the best paddles in winter. Tides are also often in favour for launching and landing.

Happy Winter Paddling!