Sea kayaking past tafoni sandstone formations on Saturna Island BC

Why Saturna Island is One of BC’s Best Sea Kayaking Destinations

If you are looking for a sea kayaking destination in British Columbia that combines world-class paddling conditions, extraordinary wildlife, and an unspoiled natural environment, Saturna Island deserves to be at the top of your list. Tucked into the southern end of the Gulf Islands, Saturna is the least developed and least visited of the Southern Gulf Islands accessible by BC Ferries. While Salt Spring Island draws the crowds and Galiano gets the day-trippers, Saturna remains quietly, gloriously itself. A wild and largely undisturbed island where the paddling is as good as anywhere on the BC coast.

The Southern Gulf Islands sit in the Salish Sea, the inland sea stretching between Vancouver Island and the BC mainland. This is one of the most productive marine ecosystems on the planet, a place where cold, nutrient-rich waters support extraordinary concentrations of marine life, from microscopic plankton all the way up to orcas and humpback whales. For sea kayakers, the Gulf Islands offer a uniquely sheltered yet dynamic environment. The islands themselves provide protection from open ocean swells, making conditions manageable for paddlers of many skill levels. At the same time, the tidal currents that run between the islands create challenging and technically interesting water for those seeking to develop their skills. The scenery is stunning in every direction. Forested hillsides drop to rocky shorelines of weathered sandstone. Kelp beds sway in the current. Seals haul out on sun-warmed rocks. Eagles circle overhead. On a clear day the views stretch from the Coast Mountains to the Olympic Peninsula.

Every Gulf Island has its appeal, but Saturna offers something the others cannot match: genuine remoteness combined with exceptional paddling conditions. With a permanent population of only a few hundred people and almost half the island protected as parkland, Saturna has resisted the development that has changed the character of larger Gulf Islands. On a paddle around Saturna you are likely to have the coastline largely to yourself. One exception worth knowing: if you are leaving the island on a Sunday afternoon in summer, expect a long BC Ferries lineup. Plan accordingly!

The waters around Saturna are shaped by some of the strongest tidal currents in the Southern Gulf Islands. East Point, at the island’s eastern tip, sits at the confluence of Boundary Pass and the Strait of Georgia; one of the most dynamic tidal environments on the BC coast. The western tip of the island is equally compelling, with powerful currents running through Boat Passage. For paddlers looking to develop genuine sea kayaking skills, there is no better classroom in the region. And yet Saturna is not only for advanced paddlers. The island’s west shore, with its sheltered bays, tafoni sandstone formations, eelgrass meadows, and intertidal zones, offers gentle and endlessly interesting paddling for beginners and families. The range of experiences available within a short distance of the government dock is remarkable.

Wildlife is one of the great joys of paddling around Saturna Island. Harbour seals are a near-constant presence; curious yet easily startled, often watching from the rocks as you pass. Bald eagles nest throughout the island and are spotted on almost every paddle. Great blue herons stand motionless in the shallows. River otters slip through the kelp. Seabirds perch on tiny ledges in the sandstone cliffs. Saturna’s famous feral goats sometimes make an appearance along the rocky shoreline at Taylor Bay, occasionally venturing right to the water’s edge to nibble seaweed. One of those only-on-Saturna moments that guests talk about long after they have returned home. The waters around Saturna also lie within the critical habitat of the Southern Resident killer whales. Orca sightings are not guaranteed, but they happen; particularly in the waters east of the island near East Point, which is also renowned as one of the finest whale watching spots from shore on the entire BC coast. Humpback whales have also been spotted with increasing frequency in recent years. East Point is frequently visited by researchers studying whales and porpoises from the shore, and they are often open to sharing their findings with visitors.

One of the things that makes Saturna such a compelling destination is that it genuinely offers something for everyone. Complete beginners can join a guided tour along the west shore, exploring the tafoni coastline and intertidal zones in sheltered water with an experienced guide. No prior experience is needed; just curiosity and a sense of adventure. Those looking to develop their paddling skills can enrol in a Paddle Canada certified course. KayakingSkills offers Basic through Level 2 courses, all taught by certified instructors including a Paddle Canada Instructor Trainer. The tidal environment around Saturna provides real-world conditions that accelerate learning in ways that flat-water training simply cannot. Advanced paddlers will find plenty to challenge them. Samuel Island circumnavigation, the waters around East Point and Boiling Reef, Tumbo Island; these are destinations that demand experience, judgment, and solid technical skills, and reward those who bring them with paddling experiences that are hard to match anywhere in BC.

Saturna Island is served by BC Ferries from Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay. The ferry journey through Active Pass and the Southern Gulf Islands is spectacular in its own right; a preview of the scenery that awaits on the water. Float plane service is also available directly to the government dock. The KayakingSkills base is one minute from the Lyall Harbour ferry terminal. Step off the ferry and you are on the water within minutes.

Saturna Island is not the easiest Gulf Island to get to. That is precisely why it remains so special. The visitors who make the journey tend to be people who value wild places, unhurried experiences, and genuine connection with the natural world. If that sounds like you, we would love to show you our island from the water. KayakingSkills offers guided tours and Paddle Canada certified courses from May through September. Groups are small, instruction is personal, and the setting is unlike anywhere else in BC. Text us at 604-725-8897 to book or enquire. Texting is the most reliable way to reach us on Saturna Island.

Come and kayak with us on the majestic Salish Sea.

Saturna’s Tides Decoded

The following information, observations and conclusions are from the perspective of a Saturna Island based Sea Kayaker and Paddle Canada certified Sea Kayaking Instructor and compiled to the best of her knowledge and experience over the past five years.

Tides move up and down, currents move side to side. Tides are actually long-period waves that roll around the planet as the ocean is “pulled” back and forth as the moon and sun interact with earth. The moon orbits earth and earth spins around the sun. The moon and sun both have a gravitational pull, strongly effecting large bodies of water. There is a repeating cycle as the moon orbits earth. The moon causes the majority of the gravitational pull. When sun, moon and earth align during full moon and new moon, the gravitational pull is amplified. Around two days later we experience the largest tides, called spring tides (think of “springing up and down”). This means that more water moves between low and high tides. During the first and third quarter moons, the gravitational pull is reduced, and we have smaller tidal ranges, called neap tides. Currents, also called tidal streams, are the horizontal effect of the tidal movement. While tides are biggest at spring tides, currents are also stronger as more water volume is pulled around earth. Due to the varied coastline and the many small islands in our area, slack water (when there is little to no current at the change of direction of tidal flow) does not necessarily occur simultaneously with high and low tide times, despite their correlation. The West coast of North America mostly experiences two high and two low tides of different heights each lunar day. This tidal pattern is called a mixed semi diurnal tide.

Which tidal station do I look up when paddling off Saturna Island? Primary tide stations that are relevant for Saturna Island are at Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring Island and Point Atkinson between Horseshoe Bay and West Vancouver. Saturna Island has two secondary tide stations: Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay and there is also Hope Bay on Pender Island nearby. I once wrote down tide predictions for Hope Bay, Tumbo Channel and Narvaez Bay, Fulford Harbour and Point Atkinson. I converted all the information into a graph and noticed that the difference and potential error margin for our purpose is too small to really fuss about (see graph). Especially when looking at Tumbo Channel, Hope Bay and Fulford Harbour: the graph looked almost identical for those three. Who knows, maybe I just picked a particularly good day to compare them 🙂

 

Keep predicted tide heights and possible variance due to wind and barometric pressure in mind when leaving your boat at the beach while going for walks or overnighting. Always secure your kayak with a rope too. High pressure systems can contribute to very low tides while low pressure systems can increase the height of a predicted high tide.

The Department of Fisheries and Oceans publishes tabulated printed data annually. You can buy Volume 5 for tidal stations of Juan de Fuca Strait & Strait of Georgia or get Tide information at Fisheries and Oceans. Tabulated data is easy to write down while a graph puts numbers visually into perspective and considers that tide heights increase fastest in the middle two hours between low and high tide (roughly six hours apart); both are useful tools.

Ensure that tide times are in PDT (Pacific Daylight Time) or PST (Pacific Standard Time, which you need to adjust during daylight savings in summer). In Canada, tides are measured in metres. Many websites work in feet and generate graphs which I find easy to relate to my needs. What interests us as when launching and landing a sea kayak in Lyall Harbour, is when the tide is going to be over four to five feet (by Fulford Harbour tide station). We prefer to avoid the otherwise inevitable mud battle. Intertidal zones are illustrated in green colour on nautical charts. Looking at a nautical chart for the area, you will notice how much intertidal zone there is at different beaches (look at Cabbage Island for example). Consider this when choosing launching and landing sites, especially when packing gear for overnight camping trips and dealing with low tides.

Kayaking along rocks with a large visible intertidal zone is particularly beautiful and interesting. Sea stars, sea urchins and other sea creatures, normally hidden, become visible at low tide. Take care when crossing fragile intertidal zones, seaweeds and eelgrass that provide fundamental ecosystems for the Salish Sea.

We have summarised sources of information for tide, weather and currents relevant to Saturna Island.

Use this information for the Go/No-Go decision making process that we use in planning and executing a trip, considering various environmental factors.

Ok, so we have figured out the relevant tide stations. And we understand that greater tide ranges happen at spring tides and smaller tidal ranges during neap tides. If you are looking for less currents, go kayaking during neap tides. If you are looking for more currents to play in, look for spring tides. All this is especially relevant when navigating through small passages like Boat Passage or around Boiling Reef off East Point. Our next article will decode currents around Saturna Island.

KayakingSkills.com offer Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking skills and instructor courses at various levels. We teach essential and relevant sea- man/woman -ship. We promise to educate and entertain you. You will get hands on experience with tides and currents in our courses when planning a sea kayaking trip. We help you identify hazards to avoid and risks to mitigate for your sea kayaking adventures. Our intermediate courses include current clinics in areas such as Boiling Reef, Tumbo Island and Boat Passage.

Happy Paddling!

Local Marine Weather Workshop

Local Marine Weather Workshop on Saturna Island with Tony Merry

We are hosting a one day Local Marine Weather workshop with our favourite weather teacher Tony Merry (Canadian Squadron Instructor of the Year).

Tony was a Canadian Airlines pilot for a couple of decades and a sea kayaking tours and rentals business owner on Pender Island and successfully navigated a sailing trip from Vancouver Island to California and then to the Hawaiian Islands.

This course is specific to our local Southern Gulf Islands area and the information can used anywhere on the West Coast.
You will learn how to read the clouds, understand wind and fog, effectively use forecasting and marine weather information.

This course is a must for kayakers, boaters, nature enthusiasts, adventurers and all those interested in the weather in the Salish Sea.

Saturday April 14th, 2018
10:30am to 3:30pm at the Community Hall.
Bring lunch with you.
Course fee is $50.00 per person (Handout will be provided)
Please make check payable to: Pender Island Squadron.

Call or email us to reserve your spot.

604-725-8897

Fred@KayakingSkills.com

Read our Marine Weather Workshop Report to see what we learnt at this workshop.